Showing posts with label Stitch pattern: Knit and Purl. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stitch pattern: Knit and Purl. Show all posts

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Foliage Knit Rectangle



This is called Foliage. It's a stitch pattern that can be found in the book below. It's the best stitch book I've ever bought. The instructional PDF for this 6 x 9 inch pattern can be DOWNLOADED HERE. If you want to see what's in it you can see it below.

It only uses knit and purls and you can adapt this stitch pattern to pretty much anything. I used a 10.5 needle and casted on 24. It call for a multiple of 6 stitches. The book below is where I got the stitch pattern.


Size Needle Used: 10.5

Finished Size: 6 x 9

Yarn: Impeccible, Worsted Weight

Chain: 24

Rows: 48  (repeat rows 1-12 4 times total)

Skill Level: Beginner
Stitches Used: Knit and Purl

Terms used:
Repeat * to * = Repeat the directions between the astericks
“Knit the Knits and Purl the Purls”: That means if you see a knit stitch in front of you then knit it. If you see a purl stitch in front of you do a purl stitch. You're basically reversing the instructions from the previous row.

Gauge: 4 stitches per inch and 5.34 rows per inch
Pattern:
This pattern calls for a multiple of 6 stitches. Chain 24

(RS) Row 1: *K4, P2*
(WS) Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12: Knit the knits and Purl the purls
Row 3: *K3, P3*
Row 5: *K2, P4*
Row 7: K1, *P4, K2* end with K1
Row 9: K1, *P3, K3* end with K2
Row 11: K1, *P2, K4* end with K3

Repeat rows 1-12

Leave a 6-7 inch tail and weave in all ends.

If you're interested in more my “Knit and Purl” stitch patterns you can go directly to THIS LINK.
For my Cable stitch patterns visit THIS LINK



Sunday, June 6, 2010

Double Heart Rectangle Knit Pattern




I made this 6 x 9 inch rectangle for a charity. You can download the PDF in case you want to save the pattern to your computer.

Cast on 23 stitches
Size: 10.5 needle
Yarn: Red Heart
Gauge: 3.83 stitches per inch
             5 rows per inch

There is a 4 stitch garter-stitch border. It helps to stop the curling. The border is in parenthesis if you would like to change it.

The reason I wrote this pattern in 5 sections is to make it versatile. I want you to be able to adapt it to your project. This is the order of stitches, everything will be written out below:
  • 10 rows of stockinette stitch
  • Heart Pattern: do rows 1-12
  • 2 rows of stockinette stitch
  • Heart Pattern: do rows 1-12 again
  • 10 rows of stockinette stitch
There are a total of 45 rows which equal 9 inches in height.

THE PATTERN
Again, the border stitches are in ( ) in case you want to change the garter stitch border stitches

Let's begin..............
Do 10 rows of stockinette stitch
 Rows 1,3,5,7,9: (P4) K 15 (P4)
  Rows 2,4,6,8,10: (P4) P 15 (P4)

Now the Heart Pattern (1-12)
Heart Pattern Row 1: (P4) K7, P1, K7 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 2: (P4) P6 K3 P6 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 3: (P4) K5 P5 K5 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 4: (P4) P4 K7 P4 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 5: (P4) K3 P9 K3 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 6: (P4) P2 K11 P2 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 7: (P4) K1 P13 K1 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 8: (P4) K15 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 9: (P4) P15 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 10: (P4) K7 P1 K7 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 11: (P4) P6 K3 P6 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 12: (P4) P1 K4 P5 K4 P1 (P4)

Do 2 rows of Stockinette Stitch to show a separation in between the hearts:
Row 1: (P4) K 15 (P4)
Row 2: (P4) P 15 (P4)

Now the Heart Pattern again:
Heart Pattern Row 1: (P4) K7, P1, K7 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 2: (P4) P6 K3 P6 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 3: (P4) K5 P5 K5 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 4: (P4) P4 K7 P4 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 5: (P4) K3 P9 K3 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 6: (P4) P2 K11 P2 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 7: (P4) K1 P13 K1 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 8: (P4) K15 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 9: (P4) P15 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 10: (P4) K7 P1 K7 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 11: (P4) P6 K3 P6 (P4)
Heart Pattern Row 12: (P4) P1 K4 P5 K4 P1 (P4)

Now end with 10 rows of stockinette stitch
Rows 1,3,5,7,9: (P4) K 15 (P4)
Rows 2,4,6,8,10: (P4) P 15 (P4)

FINISHING
Bind off leaving 6-8 inches and weave in all ends


If you have ANY questions please don't hesitate to ask me, thanks for stopping by.

Heather
Heatherg23@aol.com

Monday, May 31, 2010

Diamond Moss Knit Stitch Pattern

This is a very simple and basic knit pattern. Only made using Knit and Purl stitches. The pattern calls for a multiple of 12 stitches and..... it's reversible. The pattern is listed below. If you want you can download a PDF and save it to your computer for later reference.



Yarn: Caron 1 pound
Needle Size: 10.5
Cast On: 24
Rows Completed: 48
Size: 6 inches by 9 inches
 

  Abbreviations:
 * - *: Repeat the instructions between them

Explanation:
If you see this in a pattern: [(K1, P1) 2 times]       You want to do K1, P1, K1, P1

PATTERN:
Rows 1 and 2: *K6, P6*

Rows 3 and 4: *P1, K5, P5, K1*

Rows 5 and 6: *K1, P1, K4, P4, *[(K1, P1) 2 times], K4, P4* repeat *-* until the last 2 stitches, then K1, P1

Rows 7 and 8: P1, K1, P1, K3, P3, *[(K1, P1) 3 times] K3, P3* repeat *-* until the last 3 stitches then K1 P1 K1

Rows 9 and 10: [(K1, P1) 2 times], K2, P2 [(K1, P1) 4 times], K2 P2 repeat *-* until last 4 stitches then K1, P1, K1, P1

Rows 11 and 12: *P1, K1*

Rows 13 and 14: *K1, P1*

Rows 15 and 16: [(P1, K1) 2 times, P2, K2 * [(P1, K1) 4 times, P2, K2 repeat *-* until last 4 stitches then P1, K1, P1, K1

Rows 17 and 18: K1, P1, K1, P3, K3 * [(P1, K1) 3 times, P3, K3 repeat *-* until last 3 stitches then P1, K1, P1

Rows 19 and 20: P1, K1, P4, K4 *[(P1, K1) 2 times] P4, K4* repeat *-* until last 2 stitches then P1, K1

Rows 21 and 22: *K1, P5, K5, P1*
Rows 23 and 24: *P6, K6*
Rows 25 and 26: *P5, K1, P1, K5*
Rows 27 and 28: * P4,[(K1, P1) 2 times] K4*
Rows 29 and 30: *P3, [(K1, P1) 3 times] K3*
Rows 31 and 32: *P2 [(K1, P1) 4 times] K2*
Rows 33 and 34: *P1, K1*
Rows 35 and 36: *K1, P1*
Rows 37 and 38: *K2,[(P1, K1) 4 times] P2*
Rows 39 and 40: *K3, [(P1, K1) 3 times] P3*
Rows 41 and 42: *K4 [(P1, K1) 2 times] P4*
Rows 43 and 44: *K5, P1, K1, P5*

Repeat rows 1-44 for pattern.
To achieve the size needed I completed rows 1-44 then I did rows 1-4 again.

Finishing:
Bind off and weave in all ends.

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Sunday, April 5, 2009

Split Granite Afghan - Twin Size Blanket




Closeup



Spit Granite Knitted Afghan

 4-14-09 I updated the PDF with the amount of yarn that's needed for the afghan.

This simple knitted afghan fits a twin size bed. It is made up of 42, (6 x 9 1/2inch) rectangles. I knitted 6 columns, made up of 7 rectangles, then sewed them side-to-side.I used Bernat Softee Chunky yarn. It's SO soft, I love it. It's the most comfortable blanket I own. Feel free to download the pattern below.

Download PDF here
                       
Thanks!!
Heather

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Arm Warmer Pebble Blue


Pebble Blue Arm Warmer

Pebble Blue Knitted Arm Warmer

Have fun creating this beginner knitted arm warmer pattern. Just repeat the same 4 rows for as long as you want the arm warmer to be. It’s not a lace pattern but sometimes it can look like it is. The larger the needle the more there is a “lace” effect. You're basically making a rectangle and sewing the edges together. The entire pattern is below. 

When it comes to size I add 1/2 inch to the size of the wrist of the person wearing it. 

If you're looking for a challenge you can try these Cabled Arm Warmers. They include Serpentine Cable Arm Warmer, Soft Cabled Arm Warmer, "Warm Me Up" Braid Cable, Waves Arm Warmer, Slow and Easy Cabled Arm Warmer and more.

It's made flat and then the sides are sewn together.

IF you want a thumb hole see the instructions in the section "Sewing your arm warmer together" #5.

Skill Level: Beginner

CO: 25 sts

Needle Size: 11 US

Finished Size: 6 inches width. 

ABBREVIATIONS:
WYIF = Bring yarn in front, as if to purl
S1: Slip 1 stitch, as if to purl
* * = Repeat instructions between them

PATTERN:
You need an uneven number of stitches for this pattern 

Row 1: P1, * K1, P1*
Row 2: K1 *WYIF, S1, K1*
Row 3: K1 * P1, K1*
Row 4: K2 *WYIF, S1 K1*

REPEAT ROWS 1-4 as needed


FINISHING
  1. It’s important to do a loose bind off or it will squeeze your hand/arm. That's not to comfortable, trust me. I've made that mistake a couple of times.
  2. I always do a purl bind off no matter what stitch the last row is comprised of. It's so much more attractive then a knitted one. It's up to you.
  1. When you end your last row cut your yarn and leave a tail. You will tie a knot to secure the sewing and then you can weave it in.


Sewing your arm warmer together

If you have your own method of sewing by all means do that. If you need instructions then I can tell you how to sew it together.

Place the arm warmer with the right side facing down. Then take the sides and fold them in ward. Pin the top of it as you're working.

  1. Now thread your yarn needle.
  1. Start sewing by threading your needle through the purl bump closest to the edge then put your needle through the purl bump closest to the edge on the opposite side. Pull the yarn through leaving about 4 inches and tie a loose knot (so it doesn't squeeze your wrist). Then tie another knot tightly to secure the first one.
  1. Now, whatever side your yarn needle is on, **go up a little and put your yarn needle through the purl bump closest to the edge and go straight across to the other side and do the same.** repeat the instructions between the asterisks. The diagram shows how to do it.
  2. Pull tight every couple of inches.

      5. You can also pin where the thumb hole is going to be, if you want one. To do that lay it flat and slip your hand in it just like you would when wearing it. Use 2 safety pins where you want the beginning and end to be. When you get to the 1st safety pin weave the yarn into the sides until you get to the top pin and continue sewing again.

When you get to the very top do the last stitch and pull it tight, but not so tight that it hurts your arm, and tie a knot if you have a tail from when you finish your warmer.

Hope you try it sometime. Let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks!!
Heather




Monday, October 6, 2008

Fabric Stitch Arm Warmer


                                     



    Beginner Fabric Stitch Knit Arm Warmer - Free

                            
                                                                         

This is a great beginner arm warmer to try because it uses Knit and Purl stitches only, unlike my cabled.  Even if you're experienced at knitting it is a great pattern to try

If you're looking for a challenge you can try these Cabled Arm Warmers. They include Serpentine Cable Arm Warmer, Soft Cabled Arm Warmer, "Warm Me Up" Braid Cable, Waves Arm Warmer, Slow and Easy Cabled Arm Warmer and more.
It's made flat and then the sides are sewn together.


CO: 24
Yar: Caron 1 Pound
Needle Size: US 11
Rows Completed: 49 rows
Size: 6 x 9 inches
Amount of Yarn: 60 yards for both

ABBREVIATIONS:
WYIF = With Yarn in Front (as if to purl)
S1 = Slip 1 stitch
* *= Repeat the instructions between them

PATTERN:

It calls for an even amount of stitches

Row 1: *K1, WYIF S1* end with K2
Rows 2 & 4: Purl
Row 3: K2 *WYIF S1, K1*


FINISHING
  1. It’s important to do a loose bind off or it will squeeze your hand/arm. That's not to comfortable, trust me. I've made that mistake a couple of times.
  2. I always do a purl bind off no matter what stitch the last row is comprised of. It's so much more attractive then a knitted one. It's up to you.
  1. When you end your last row cut your yarn and leave a tail. You will tie a knot to secure the sewing and then you can weave it in.



Sewing your arm warmer together

If you have your own method of sewing by all means do that. If you need instructions then I can tell you how to sew it together.

Place the arm warmer with the right side facing down. Then take the sides and fold them in ward. Pin the top of it as you're working.

  1. Now thread your yarn needle.
  1. Start sewing by threading your needle through the purl bump closest to the edge then put your needle through the purl bump closest to the edge on the opposite side. Pull the yarn through leaving about 4 inches and tie a loose knot (so it doesn't squeeze your wrist). Then tie another knot tightly to secure the first one.
  1. Now, whatever side your yarn needle is on, **go up a little and put your yarn needle through the purl bump closest to the edge and go straight across to the other side and do the same.** repeat the instructions between the asterisks. The diagram shows how to do it.
  2. Pull tight every couple of inches.

      5. You can also pin where the thumb hole is going to be, if you want one. To do that lay it flat and slip your hand in it just like you would when wearing it. Use 2 safety pins where you want the beginning and end to be. When you get to the 1st safety pin weave the yarn into the sides until you get to the top pin and continue sewing again.

When you get to the very top do the last stitch and pull it tight, but not so tight that it hurts your arm, and tie a knot if you have a tail from when you finish your warmer.


Hope you try it sometime. Let me know if you have any questions.


Thanks!!
Heather














Saturday, August 23, 2008

Simple Split Granite Arm Warmer



Vanna White Purple Speckled Yarn

This is a great knit arm warmer pattern for a beginner and it's a quick project. It only uses knits and purls to create it. You're repeating rows 1-12 but I wrote out the row numbers. You can make it as long as you would like.  You're basically making a 

I usually add 1/2 inch to the measurement of the wrist this is going to be on. I have a 6 inch wrist so I make mine 6 1/2 inches.

IF you're are is
Thumb hole? Yes, see sewing instructions
Yarn Used: Caron One Pound Worsted Weight, Blue or
Vanna White yarn, Purple Mist
CO: 23 or any odd number of stitches
Rows Completed: 54
Finished Size: 6 x 9 inches
Needle Size: 10.5
Made: Flat

Abbreviations:
WYIB = With yarn in back (as if to knit)
S1 = Slip 1 stitch as if to purl
* * = Repeat the instructions between * and  *

PATTERN:
Like I said at the beginning of my post that you are repeating rows 1-12. But I wrote them out in case you want to cross off the rows as you go along.

Rows 1,3,5,13,15,17,25,27,29,37,39,41,49,51,53:
P1,(WYIB , S1, P1) x 11

Rows 2-54 and all even rows: Purl all stitches

Rows 7,9,11,19,21,23,31,33,35,43,45,47:
P2,(WYIB , S1, P1) x 11 End last repeat with P2


FINISHING
  1. It’s important to do a loose bind off or it will squeeze your hand/arm. That's not to comfortable, trust me. I've made that mistake a couple of times.
  2. I always do a purl bind off no matter what stitch the last row is comprised of. It's so much more attractive then a knitted one. It's up to you.. Do what you want.
  1. When you end your last row cut your yarn and leave a tail. You will tie a knot to secure the sewing and then you can weave it in.





Sewing your arm warmer together

If you have your own method of sewing by all means do that. If you need instructions then I can tell you how to sew it together.

Place the arm warmer with the right side facing down. Then take the sides and fold them in ward. Pin the top of it as you're working.

  1. Now thread your yarn needle.
  1. Start sewing by threading your needle through the purl bump closest to the edge then put your needle through the purl bump closest to the edge on the opposite side. Pull the yarn through leaving about 4 inches and tie a loose knot (so it doesn't squeeze your wrist). Then tie another knot tightly to secure the first one.
  1. Now, whatever side your yarn needle is on, **go up a little and put your yarn needle through the purl bump closest to the edge and go straight across to the other side and do the same.** repeat the instructions between the asterisks. The diagram shows how to do it.
  2. Pull tight every couple of inches.

5. You can also pin where the thumb hole is going to be, if you want one. To do that lay it flat and slip your hand in it just like you would when wearing it. Use 2 safety pins where you want the beginning and end to be. When you get to the 1st safety pin weave the yarn into the sides until you get to the top pin and continue sewing again.

When you get to the very top do the last stitch and pull it tight (but not to tight) and tie a knot if you have a tail from when you finish your warmer.

If you ever have any questions please leave a comment on this post.

Thanks!!
Heather